Cotopaxi National Park

Quito sits in the central Andean valley between two chains of volcanoes, named the 'Avenue of the Volcanoes' by 18th century explorer Alexander von Humboldt. Today we had the pleasure of taking a day trip through part of the avenue to Cotopaxi National Park, 50 km south of Quito.

Cotopaxi is the centrepiece of the National Park. At 5897 metres, it is not the highest mountain in the chain (Chimborazo, further south, is 6310 metres) but Cotopaxi is possibly the most spectacular - a classic example of a conic volcano, surrounded by a plateau of alpine meadows, themselves at a (literally) breath-taking 3800 metres.

The first stop for the day was in the outer suburbs of Quito overlooking the valley towards Pichincha Volcano, which stands ominously over the city, having last erupted in 1999.

Quito (stitched panorama)
Pentax K-3, Pentax 16-50mm f/2.8 @ 24mm, ISO 400, f/5.6 1/500

On reaching the National Park, we stopped at the museum and cafe long enough get an idea of the lay of the land and to sample the coca tea (whole coca leaves in hot water) and purchase some coca lollies, both alleged to help with altitude sickness, before taking a walk up one of the trails.

Walking trail, Cotopaxi National Park
Pentax K-3, Pentax 16-50mm f/2.8 @ 16mm, ISO 400, f/8 1/100 

Even though the trail was a gently rising set of steps, it was a challenging walk at this altitude without having spent much time to get acclimatised--our last two days had been spent at the lower altitudes of the Bellavista Cloud Forest. However the trail did provide some spectacular views of the alpine valley...

Walking trail, Cotopaxi National Park
Pentax K-3, Pentax 16-50mm f/2.8 @ 22mm, ISO 400, f/8 1/200

...and our first teasing glimpse of Cotopaxi.

Cotopaxi from walking trail, Cotopaxi National Park
Pentax K-3, Pentax 16-50mm f/2.8 @ 43mm, ISO 400, f/8 1/800

Our first bird for the walk was a Black-chested Buzzard-Eagle, flying high overhead. I decided against carrying the longer lens and tripod on this walk so this was the best I could manage with the 70-200mm zoom.

Black-chested Buzzard-Eagle, Cotopaxi National Park
Pentax K-3, Tamron 70-200mm f/2.8 @ 200mm, ISO 400, f/5.6 1/8000

Fortunately, not all the birdlife was this far away. This little chap stopped and posed only a few metres up the trail from us and allowed me to get close enough for this shot with just the 70-200 zoom. Identification of the bird became an ongoing challenge despite seeing and photographing the same species at two other locations. It turns out that it it is not listed in the field guide we had with us! Once we got home, the online Handbook of the Birds of the World came to the rescue (this is a fantastic online resource - full access requires an annual subscription but I think it's well worth the few $$ spent to get access to a vast database of information and support its ongoing development - check it out at www.hbw.com) and I managed to find it by cross-referencing other bird lists from the same area.

Bar-winged Cinclodes, Cotopaxi National Park
Pentax K-3, Tamron 70-200mm f/2.8 @ 170mm, ISO 400, f/2.8 1/1000

Our next stop was on the high plateau at Pampa de Limpio, a vast alpine meadow, where there were several species of birds foraging including several species of 'shore birds'. Baird's Sandpipers were a long way off--too far away to photograph--but several Andean Lapwing were close to the road.

Andean Lapwing, Pampa de Limpio, Cotopaxi National Park
Pentax K-3, Sigma 300mm f/2.8 (x2 adapter), ISO 800, f/8 1/500

The most spectacular birds, though, were the Caracaras (large, ground feeding falcons) that were foraging for insects under cow pats and horse dung.

Carunculated Caracara, Pampa de Limpio, Cotopaxi National Park
Pentax K-3, Sigma 300mm f/2.8 (x2 adapter), ISO 800, f/11 1/400

Carunculated Caracara, Pampa de Limpio, Cotopaxi National Park
Pentax K-3, Sigma 300mm f/2.8 (x2 adapter), ISO 800, f/8 1/500

...and yes, there are wild horses on the high plateau. Apparently they have been released there to live wild and provide an added food source for the Andean Condor, whose natural food sources have become scarce.

Wild horses, Pampa de Limpio, Cotopaxi National Park
Pentax K-3, Sigma 300mm f/2.8 (x2 adapter), ISO 800, f/8 1/1000

Tambopaxi Lodge is the only commercial operation within the National Park. Sitting near the foot of Cotopaxi Volcano, it provides lodging facilities for walkers and mountain climbers as well as a fantastic cafe, where we stopped for lunch. It also provides great views of Cotopaxi and nearby Sincholagua and a few birds thrown in for good measure.

Cotopaxi Volcano from Tambopaxi, Cotopaxi National Park
Pentax K-3, Pentax 16-50mm f2.8 @ 36mm, ISO 400, f/8 1/200

Sincholagua Volcano from Tambopaxi, Cotopaxi National Park
Pentax K-3, Pentax 16-50mm f2.8 @ 39mm, ISO 400, f/8 1/200

Great Thrush, Tambopaxi, Cotopaxi National Park
Pentax K-3, Sigma 300mm f/2.8, ISO 400, f/4 1/400

Andean Gull, Tambopaxi, Cotopaxi National Park
Pentax K-3, Sigma 300mm f/2.8 (x2 adapter), ISO 400, f/5.6 1/400

Andean Teal, Tambopaxi, Cotopaxi National Park
Pentax K-3, Sigma 300mm f/2.8 (x2 adapter), ISO 400, f/5.6 1/1000

After lunch we were back to Pampa de Limpio to photograph the third volcano in the area, Rumiñawi, and check out Laguna de Limpio Pungo.

Rumiñawi with Andean Lupin in foreground, Pampa de Limpio, Cotopaxi National Park
Pentax K-3, Pentax 16-50mm f/2.8 @ 31mm, ISO 800, f/16 1/60

Ian photographing the Andean Lupin (above)
Photo courtesy of Joanne Smissen

Laguna de Limpio Pungo, Cotopaxi National Park
Pentax K-3, Pentax 16-50mm f/2.8 @ 50mm, ISO 400, f/4 1/160

Best birds on the edge of the lake were this Ecuadorian Hillstar (it appeared on this branch about 30 metres from where I took the photograph above and stayed only long enough for me to change lenses and go click - no time to change the ISO to get a faster shutter speed so the shot is a little blurry but it's another hummingbird...)

Ecuadorian Hillstar, Laguna de Limpio Pungo, Cotopaxi National Park
Pentax K-3, Sigma 300mm f/2.8 (x2 adapter), ISO 400, f/2.8 1/125

and a pair of Plumbeous Sierra Finches, the male of which stayed (almost) still enough for one half decent shot - I had to bump the ISO up to 3200 to get a fast enough shutter speed to get this little guy as he was in non-stop motion hopping around among the grasses and wildflowers on the edge of the lake. The female was much more difficult to shoot as she spent the whole time hidden in a distant tree.

Plumbeous Sierra-Finch (male), Laguna de Limpio Pungo, Cotopaxi National Park
Pentax K-3, Sigma 300mm f/2.8 (x2 adapter), ISO 3200, f/6.4 1/5000

However, the wildlife highlight was not a bird. We spotted a pair of Tapeti (Forest Rabbit), one of which I managed to capture in this single shot (heavily cropped) before it was gone.

Tapeti, Laguna de Limpio Pungo, Cotopaxi National Park
Pentax K-3, Sigma 300mm f/2.8 (x2 adapter), ISO 3200, f/6.4 1/4000

The rain that had threatened all day finally started falling so we were back in the car and off to our overnight accommodation at Hacienda la Cienega, an 18th century Spanish Hacienda - a great way to top off a fantastic day.

Hacienda la Cienega, Lasso, Ecuador
Pentax K-3, Pentax 16-50mm f/2.8 @ 18mm, ISO 1600, f/2.8, 1/160

Jo, Hacienda la Cienega, Lasso, Ecuador
Pentax K-3, Pentax 16-50mm f/2.8 @ 50mm, ISO 1600, f/2.8, 1/60

Next... Galápagos

Splashes of Colour in the Cloud Forest

In my last post I featured the hummingbirds of the cloud forest in and around Bellavista but hummingbirds are only one highlight of this forest. It seems that every colour of the rainbow, and some that appear to be beyond the rainbow, appear among many of the other birds of the cloud forest.

Blue-winged Mountain Tanagers and Masked Flowerpiercers were frequent (disruptive) visitors to the hummingbird feeders at the lodge.

Blue-winged Mountain Tanager, Bellavista Lodge
Pentax K-3, Sigma 300mm f/2.8, ISO 1600, f/4 1/250

Masked Flowerpiercer, Bellavista Lodge
Pentax K-3, Sigma 300mm f/2.8, ISO 1000, f/2.8 1/800

while Turquoise Jays hung around in the background.

Turquoise Jay, Bellavista Lodge
Pentax K-3, Sigma 300mm f/2.8, ISO 1000, f/2.8 1/500

A pair of Masked Trogons was resident around the cafe

Masked Trogon (female), Bellavista Lodge
Pentax K-3, Sigma 300mm f/2.8, ISO 1250, f/2.8 1/640

Masked Trogon (male), Bellavista Lodge
Pentax K-3, Sigma 300mm f/2.8, ISO 1600, f/2.8 1/200

and this Crimson-mantled Woodpecker was found doing its thing behind one of the cabins.

Crimson-mantled Woodpecker, Bellavista Lodge
Pentax K-3, Sigma 300mm f/2.8, ISO 1600, f/4 1/60

A few of the morning walkers (including my wife, Jo) found a toucan while on one of the many trails (I was back at the lodge with the hummingbirds) so Jo and I went out in the afternoon to see if we could find it again. We found a small flock of them (at least 10 birds) feeding high in some distant palms (this shot is heavily cropped).

Plate-billed Mountain Toucan, Bellavista Lodge
Pentax K-3, Sigma 300mm f/2.8 (x2 adapter), ISO 1600, f/5.6 1/320

Fortunately, one bird was much more photographically cooperative and perched in a low branch right beside the track.

Plate-billed Mountain Toucan, Bellavista Lodge
Pentax K-3, Sigma 300mm f/2.8 (x2 adapter), ISO 1600, f/7.1 1/200

Having ticked off a toucan in the wild from our lifetime wish list, we couldn't resist the early morning option on day 2 of visiting an Andean Cock-of-the-Rock lek. This meant another early morning start (4:50am) to drive for an hour along bumpy mountain tracks (which we later realised were marked highways on the map!) to get Paz Refugia before sunrise and wait for the birds to arrive.

Track to the Cock-of-the-Rock lek, Paz Refugia
Pentax K-3, Pentax 16-50mm f/2.8 @ 16mm, ISO 6400, f/2.8, 1/125

This is a privately owned property previously used for logging and cattle grazing. When the owner, Angel Paz, discovered a Cock-of-the-Rock lek on the property, he set aside a significant proportion of the land as a conservation refuge and now allows guided walks in to view the lek.

Leks are mating systems where males gather at a given location to display to females. The location of these leks becomes part of the culture of each population of birds and is used on a regular basis for years. The Andean Cock-of-the-Rock is a well studied example of a bird species that features such a mating system. I remember studying them, in theory, way back in the 70s, so it was with excited anticipation that we stood waiting to see them in action. We were lucky enough to meet with Angel, who guided us into the viewing site and told us that three or four birds would arrive just after 6:00 am.

Location of the Cock-of-the-Rock lek, Paz Refugia
Pentax K-3, Pentax 16-50mm f/2.8 @ 16mm, ISO 2000, f/2.8, 1/250

Just after sunrise, four birds showed up making an incredible cacophony of screeching sounds accompanied by lots of head-bobbing and waving, all of which occurred deep within the foliage in such dark conditions that photography was all but impossible so we just enjoyed the experience. The display lasted for about thirty minutes with birds coming and going but calling all the time from around the valley, after which they flew away down the valley. Angel had to leave but he advised us to stay saying that at least one bird would come back at 7:30 and, pointing, "perch on that branch"(yes, he specified the branch!). Sure enough, at 7:24, one bird came back and sat on exactly the branch Angel had indicated and posed for photographs while calling loudly on and off for about 45 minutes.

Andean Cock-of-the-Rock, Paz Refugia
Pentax K-3, Sigma 300mm f/2.8 (x2 adapter), ISO 2000, f/5.6, 1/125

Andean Cock-of-the-Rock, Paz Refugia
Pentax K-3, Sigma 300mm f/2.8 (x2 adapter), ISO 2000, f/5.6, 1/200

Tomorrow, Cotopaxi National Park in the high Andes.

Hummingbirds of the Ecuadorian Cloud Forest

On our way to the Galápagos Islands, we stopped for a few days in Quito, Ecuador. Among other tourist activities, we took a two day trip to Bellavista Cloud Forest Reserve located in the Tandayapa region on the western slopes of the Andes, north west of Quito.

Cloud Forest, Tandayapa, Ecuador
Pentax K-3, Pentax 16-50mm f/2.8 @ 21mm, ISO 400, f/8 1/160

Bellavista Lodge was our home for two days.

Bellavista Lodge, Tandayapa, Ecuador

View from our room, Bellavista Lodge
Pentax K-3, Pentax 16-50mm f/2.8 @ 28mm, ISO 800, f/8 1/100

Bellavista and the surrounding area is home to more than 30 species of hummingbirds, many of which can be seen at the feeders right next to the main path through the lodge grounds...

Hummingbird feeders, Bellavista Lodge
Pentax K-3, Pentax 16-50mm f/2.8 @ 24mm, ISO 1250, f/2.8 1/250

Hummingbird feeder, Bellavista Lodge
Pentax K-3, Tamron 70-200mm f/2.8 @ 200mm, ISO 3200, f/8 1/250

There are many natural and manufactured perches around the feeders offering opportunities to photograph the hummingbirds in more natural surroundings as they stop (albeit usually very briefly) on their way to and from the feeders. The constant cloud cover created an even lighting but it was very dull all day so it was a challenge to get a reasonable shutter speed without having to raise the ISO too much.

Booted Racket-tail (male), Bellavista Lodge
Pentax K-3, Sigma 300mm f/2.8, ISO 1600, f/4 1/640

Booted Racket-tail (female), Bellavista Lodge
Pentax K-3, Sigma 300mm f/2.8, ISO 1600, f/4 1/250

Buff-tailed Coronet, Bellavista Lodge
Pentax K-3, Sigma 300mm f/2.8, ISO 1250, f/2.8 1/400

Fawn-breasted Brilliant, Bellavista Lodge
Pentax K-3, Sigma 300mm f/2.8, ISO 3200, f/4 1/320

Green Violetear, Bellavista Lodge
Pentax K-3, Sigma 300mm f/2.8, ISO 1250, f/2.8 1/400

Violet-tailed Sylph, Bellavista Lodge
Pentax K-3, Sigma 300mm f/2.8, ISO 800, f/2.8 1/1250

Gorgeted Sunangel, Bellavista Lodge
Pentax K-3, Sigma 300mm f/2.8, ISO 1250, f/2.8 1/800

The bird feeders also provide opportunities for capturing the birds in flight as they hover nearby. The dull light meant it was impossible to use shutter speeds high enough to freeze the wings (without bumping the ISO to a ridiculous number) but the blur does give a sense of movement to the otherwise stationary birds.

Booted Racket-tail (male) + Green Violetear, Bellavista Lodge
Pentax K-3, Tamron 70-200mm f/2.8 @ 200mm, ISO 3200, f/8 1/400

Collared Inca, Bellavista Lodge
Pentax K-3, Sigma 300mm f/2.8, ISO 1600, f/4 1/400

Green Violetear, Bellavista Lodge
Pentax K-3, Sigma 300mm f/2.8, ISO 1600, f/4 1/500

Purple-throated Woodstar (male), Bellavista Lodge
Pentax K-3, Sigma 300mm f/2.8, ISO 2000, f/4 1/500

Purple-throated Woodstar (male) + Booted Racket-tail (male), Bellavista Lodge
Pentax K-3, Sigma 300mm f/2.8, ISO 2000, f/4 1/640

Speckled Hummingbird, Bellavista Lodge
Pentax K-3, Sigma 300mm f/2.8, ISO 1250, f/2.8 1/500

On the way back to Quito on the 2nd afternoon, we stopped at Alambi Hummingbird Paradise. This was a few kilometres down the road and a few hundred metres lower in altitude than Bellavista and had an almost completely different collection of hummingbirds.

Andean Emerald, Alambi Hummingbird Paradise
Pentax K-3, Sigma 300mm f/2.8, ISO 3200, f/4 1/400

Brown Violetear, Alambi Hummingbird Paradise
Pentax K-3, Sigma 300mm f/2.8, ISO 3200, f/4 1/800

Green-crowned Brilliant, Alambi Hummingbird Paradise
Pentax K-3, Sigma 300mm f/2.8, ISO 3200, f/4 1/800

Green-crowned Woodnymph, Alambi Hummingbird Paradise
Pentax K-3, Sigma 300mm f/2.8, ISO 3200, f/4 1/1000

Rufous-tailed Hummingbird, Alambi Hummingbird Paradise
Pentax K-3, Sigma 300mm f/2.8, ISO 3200, f/4 1/1000

White-necked Jacobin (male), Alambi Hummingbird Paradise
Pentax K-3, Sigma 300mm f/2.8, ISO 3200, f/4 1/500

White-necked Jacobin (female), Alambi Hummingbird Paradise
Pentax K-3, Sigma 300mm f/2.8, ISO 3200, f/4 1/400

Purple-throated Woodstar (male), Alambi Hummingbird Paradise
Pentax K-3, Sigma 300mm f/2.8, ISO 3200, f/4 1/2500

Purple-throated Woodstar (male), Alambi Hummingbird Paradise
Pentax K-3, Sigma 300mm f/2.8, ISO 3200, f/4 1/1000

Purple-throated Woodstar (female), Alambi Hummingbird Paradise
Pentax K-3, Sigma 300mm f/2.8, ISO 3200, f/4 1/1600

Hummingbirds were not the only attraction...the next post will feature other rainforest birds displaying an amazing array of colours...